Mother and child

Sarnath.

So went off to sarnath, where I was asked to photograph this woman and her child. There's a small settlement of similar tents and various rudimentary shelters. She seemed pleased with the result and I walked away humbled by the gulf in our levels of expectation and comfort....of the possibilities which led me to be here with camera....sometimes India does give you a shake, unexpectedly kicks you up the arose to remind you.....

managed a whole day of not seeing anyonze burning...

I have no idea what I expected; the deer park, Buddha's first sermon...hmm...its one that I'm still thinking on. Its curious to be able to stand on a particular piece of ground where a belief system was first given voice...that was and is curious feeling...and it was tranquil in comparison to the ghats. I should probably go back....but part of me thinks that it was never about this, only the message...but that I can understand why we would want to see this place....later a madness of Buddhists swarmed upon it and I departed...

Leaving sarnath I was called by a micro bus driver, shouted Varanasi? jumped on and ended up going back to sarnath....you're going to sarnath I asked to a smile; "no money" he said, "is free for you" I laughed, yes but I want to go to Varanasi I said....."later, we go him"and pointed his head at the other passenger, an elderly Buddhist who, by his expression had been feasting upon soured milk and vinegar..."then we drink one lemon chai....then go Varanasi. Not free. Twenty five rupees" the bus is a seven seater, it managed fourteen, plus bags....but in fairness the conductor was hanging out of the open side door....

Then happily wandering back to the ghats, fighting my way through the swarms of rickshaw drivers who believe that all walking should be prevented...I got offered a tuk tuk....no I just want to walk today, it's not far. "Is very far, maybe one kilometer." One kilometer is not far I replied thinking that some oddity is about to occur...."yes is very far. You not want rickshaw, maybe you drive, I am passenger." And he got out eyes gleaming slightly madly and smiled, taunting me to do something stupid....of course....and there I was, driving a tuk tuk through Varanasi main town having directions shouted at me while I struggled with the clutch accelerator combi in the left hand...the streets were bewildering, the tuk tuk had no horn but it did have a brake, which was good enough to begin with and surprising acceleration if you prayed hard enough....the penultimate roundabout leading the giggling maniac behind me to shout gleefully... "you drive like an Indian...I need a chai...turn left..." and then I realised, I was back to where I'd got off the bus....and so back to the ghats...

Where an evening jam on the rooftop survived until the mosquitos got peckish....