Diary of an Edinburgher

By LadyMarchmont

Recovering from a night in the desert...

We slept under the stars last night! A full moon meant that I had to have the (Berber) blanket pulled over my head - it was like a huge great torch shining all night! But when it disappeared over the horizon, about 4 am, and it was just millions of magical stars.

Most folk got up and climbed a hill to see the sunrise from a vantage point. I felt that the campsite was enough of a vantage point and visited the camels instead. The two lines of camels had sat there all night, mumbling quietly to themselves. I thought how wonderful they were, but then saw the Berber chap untying their knees - they couldn't get up anyway!

After yesterday's painful experience, I doubled my blanket seat. This proved to be useless. I have never wanted something to stop immediately while simultaneously wanting it to last forever! Walking along was bearable. Just. But deserts are full of sand dunes, and we went up and down. Down was the MOST painful as the camel lurched and stomped. I was almost wishing I could fall off and end the pain. I may have done myself permanent damage. I was not alone - most folk found it uncomfortable to varying degrees. I think they need to redesign the camel 'saddle'.

We had breakfast at the auberge where our luggage was left. No shower, mind you, so the whole bus was rather smelly all day!

Today our stops were at a fossil factory (this area used to be under the sea several hundred million years ago), a Berber Museum and amazing (mud brick) village built completely under cover because of the hot sun. We walked through the wee dark streets, all set out in a grid pattern, and came to a wee open air market place, where I managed a few sneaky photos. We stopped at a Berber cemetery and Abdou told us about the burials ritual. He also explained how the underground irrigation system was built, and we went down a disused well and connecting tunnel.

We're now at our hotel for two nights in the Todra Gorge. It's fantastic. A porter carried my bag across the wee wooden bridge over the river and up lots of the steps to the hotel. It was well worth 70p! The whole hotel had to be built by carrying everything across on donkeys!

We have three options for tomorrow:
A four hour guided hike up the mountains.
A two hour hike round the gorge.
A lie in, a trip in the van with Abdou and meet all the walkers for lunch in a the village.

Guess which option JR and I are doing...

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