Orakei Karako

I wake soon after 6 to a view of blue skies and brilliant sunshine, so rush outside to take photographs of the scene. After our last week, such weather us a novelty, and we’re never sure just how long it’s going to last. 

We breakfast on the upper deck, looking across a mirror-calm Lake Taupo towards the blueness of the distant mountains, Mount Ruapehu topped with snow. 

It would be tempting to stay here all day, but we’ve off to Orakei Karako - the destination missed out on yesterday’s itinerary. Lonely Planet describes this ‘arguably the best thermal area in New Zealand’ and I’d say they’ve got it absolutely right. For us, it’s infinitely better than the over-visited Rotarua. In fairness, the weather is certainly better - more conducive to enabling the mineral colours to shine. But there’s so much more here - so many areas, fancifully yet appropriately named, like ‘Artist’s Pallet’, ‘Emerald Terrace’ and ‘Golden Fleece Terrace’. And it’s so, so quiet. A little ferry runs back and forth on demand from the small visitors’ centre, the whole area seeming charmingly remote, and wandering about from one area we’re frequently alone and in silence - but for birdsong and the incessant chirping of cicadas. In fact the insect noise at times reverberates so intensely that it feels as our mouths are full of amplified popping candy exploding minutely all around. 

Yes, there is a faint smell of sulphur, but its unpleasantness is insignificant compared to the beauty of the place as we wander through lush vegetation which seems to thrive regardless of the heat and mineral content of the waters. There’s even a cave - one of only two geothermal caves in the world - though we can only gaze into it from the safety of the viewing platform. Here, as throughout the area, steam rises continuously, eerie evidence of earth’s activity below the surface - constant reminders of the volcanic instability of this whole area. 

Finally, we drag ourselves away, returning to our temporary home for a much-needed afternoon rest before our next activity: our sunset yacht ‘cruise’ across the lake to see the Maori rock carvings. They’re actually situated just below our Airbnb, but can only be seen from the water. Traditional in style, they are in fact quite recent, dating back to the 1970s. 

We’ve hoped for calm, sunny weather - and for once we get it; the problem is, there’s no wind for the sails. Fortunately, our yacht has a silent electric motor, so although we miss out on the feel of sailing with the wind, we do glide silently across the water - enjoying glasses of wine as part of the sunset experience.  Several fellow passengers dive in when we stop to view the carvings - but we are not amongst them. The water’s freezing! And we have the added entertainment of feeding ducks who take food on the wing from the outstretched hand of the skipper’s daughter. 

It’s then a case of a quick meal before catching the last rays of a pretty spectacular sunset from the deck back at The Point. 


My main’s a close up of one of the thermal features, with a collage extra showing the amazing range of colours visible in this geothermal wonder. Then there are extras showing other aspects of our day in Taupo. 


Thanks so much for your response to yesterday’s entry - I had no idea so many blippers were hobbit fans!