Rio Tárcoles
A stand out day, augmented by leaving the distinctly chilly cloud forest and very mediocre accommodation and replacing it with tropical sunshine, and the best hotel of the trip.
After the usual confused breakfast, we had to order the night before so it should have uncomplicated for the staff, we happily boarded the mini bus and looked forward to descending the mountain roads into super warmer climes, (Allan, our delightful local guide is very fond of the word super).
Our final destination was Manuel Antionio on the Pacific Ocean. After no more than 20 minutes driving we were discarding the layers we’d worn for breakfast, and basked in the heat. 120 km later we reached Tárcoles, crocodile central. Our guide had arranged a river trip primarily to see the crocodiles, which we did, however it was the stunning bird life that got us most excited, including the non birders. Without the need for binoculars we spotted 3 sorts of kingfishers, one with a fish in its mouth, 2 osprey, numerous large brown pelicans, and most spectacular flocks of Magnificent Frigate birds in the bushes. The males are especially magnificent with their bright red inflated gular sacs. The Roseate Spoonbills, extra, were almost as exciting. It was all very different to the only other crocodile trip I’ve undertaken in the Northern Territory. Here no feeding is allowed so sightings can be hit or miss and the river vessel was only half full so we could move about and see both sides of the estuary bank. We accessed the river via a 3km tractor ride passing through farmland scattered with cattle and cattle egrets.
Tomorrow is a free day, our first chance to mooch about and wander aimlessly about on the beach which appears, from a brief visit this evening, to be awash with capuchin monkeys I can see a couple shimming up and down the fire escape from my bed.
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