The final straw for a rather reluctant teenager - and even for his dad who balked at the 2 euro entry fee...

It was grey and the cloud low so not perfect for coastal exploring but we persevered. A flat light beach walk, food for the boy, a glimpse of life on the Blasket Islands with their interesting parallels with St Kilda, a consolatory piece of cake for the boy and a short cliff walk before heading back for cybercomfort for him and a pint for us in a small port-side pub where all the men were clustered on to one bench to watch the Gaelic football on telly. Left plenty of room for us next to the fire. Then back over the hill for a lovely seafood meal.