Still giddy! A well at the end of the world
I can't explain how thrilling and significant this encounter was! I had tried to find this little well twice before and knew it would be really hard to locate - situated literally on the edge of a cliff in wild and remote country but we decided - well I did - to give it another go
You travel along the tiny Kerry Head Peninsula and then swing off the already small road down towards the cliffs where there is a tiny gated settlement which feels truly ancient. There are a few scattered houses and a small derelict church and it is more or less home to one family who have lived here for generations. It is only this family who are allowed to be buried in the church yard and only this family who can activate the well.To activate the well the bulley is required - a special stone that remains in the keeping of the family. Only male members of the family can do the business and that’s who I needed to find. No one was about but then a dog appeared followed by M on his tractor! What a truly charming man. He assured us we would never find the well on our own (how right he was) but he would take us. He warned the going would be very tough, but fetched his coat and off we went - across fields, down slopes dense with gorse, nettles and briars, being buffeted by the wind and stared at by the cattle. Himself remained in the car due to the limitations of his dodgy hip. Finola left us at the first very steep stream, the dog left us at the second and M and I staggered towards the cliff edge, where he hacked a path down through the nettles, gorse and more briars, some as thick as my wrist! As M noted, my legs were destroyed - I was wearing my (posh) ankle length wellies! Not a bother for suddenly there was the well, intact, bramble free and percolating. I was beyond giddy! Absolutely incredible. Dedicated to St Erc, or possibly St Brigid, three rounds were required. The water is said to hold a cure for all evils that flesh is heir to.
We walked back up a stream which was slightly easier, met the dog who was still waiting for us, and Finola who was chatting to M's son. I was plucking up my courage to ask when suddenly M said Would you like to see the bulley? I was beyond myself! We went into the house, met his wife who disappeared, reappearing a few minutes later with the bulley - a smooth black stone, rather like a discus. I was allowed to hold it, more ecstasy. What a massive privilege and I don't think anyone other than the family would have done this for decades. M couldn't remember the last person to go to the well but I know it was visited in the 1980s by American researchers when his grandfather was alive and I think there might have been a Mass at the Millennium but other than that, no one. M said he hopes to restore the path to the well and tidy up the area around it. I do hope he has time for this is such a remarkable and unique site, still imbued with plenty of vibes and rich with astonishing folklore and ritual.
We had to go and find coffee in Ballyheigue, and sit and stare at the waves for a while after all that! I'm still giddy.
One extra courtesy of Finola!
Stained glass bonanza
Derrycunnily Church
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