Not Porty People and Places

Water falls into sparkly fountains. The sun casts a mantle of very late summer warmth on this quiet square.

We are sitting in the heart of Warsaw and at the epicentre of the largest of all the former Nazi ghettos.

Since last we were here, two years ago, the final souvenirs of what happened here are being built out of the environment. An up market gentrification of the sole remaining ghetto tenement street is almost complete.

The consternation, however, writ large on the face of the old man sitting by the fountains was evidence, still, of the terror and trauma that took place here.