Constanta, Romania

The iconic Casino in Constanta - now derelict but with lavish plans for restoration and a grand future. Rather like the rest of the country in so many rather tragic ways.

Situated where they are, they've been threatened and sandwiched between so many grand empires - Turkish, Russian ....... And the Ceaucescu regime of terror still casts a shadow of memory over the population.

We had a splendid tour, with Adina, a charming guide who spoke excellent English with a chic French accent.

In the centre of the city (the Black Sea's largest port) there are the faded shells of stunning buildings, partly put back together. The Mosque, the Orthodox Cathedral and the Archaeological Museum are grand and clearly functioning, but the rest is full of hope and optimism. But they have so far to go.

We had a wine tasting. We drove round by the seafront. But it is all overwhelmingly poor and there is so much to do. Our hearts go out to them but not in a patronising way. Give them time and may their determination carry them through.

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